Written by: Milica Bokšan
Kafana culture, as a term, may sound odd to some Serbs, because this type of culture is already deeply rooted in our culture, and we don’t have a special name for it.
Of course, kafana culture doesn’t mean we visit a kafana every day.
But what’s kafana culture than?
You’re about to find out!
#1 What is Kafana?
Kafana, which can be roughly translated as pub or tavern, is a place where people gather to enjoy food, drinks and conversations. Today, they are popular places for night outs, and as such, an important part of nightlife in Serbia.
The name itself originated from the Turkish words kahvane, meaning coffee (tur. kahve) and house (tur. khane). As you can conclude for yourself, back in the day, these were places where coffee was served.
Over time, kafana became the main local meeting point. These pubs become places where people, usually men, gather to exchange news or just spend some free time while drinking coffee or rakija.
Many famous Serbian singers, such as Toma Zdravković, started their careers in Serbian kafanas.
In Serbian vocabulary, there’s even a phrase kafanski čovek. It is used to describe someone who loves to spend their time in these places more than they should. This has a negative connotation, as it suggests someone who also likes to drink too much.
#2 How Kafana Looks Like?
A couple of decades ago, all kafanas looked similar. Wooden tables and chairs, plaid tablecloths, same glasses for rakija, white cups for coffee, basic decor with just a couple of pictures on the walls, and waiters with white shirts and black iprons.
Today, some traditional kafanas keep this look, but many look just like any other restaurant, with the word kafana in their name, so you can be sure you visited one. 😀
Visitors of kafana included the biggest names in Serbian literature and the Serbian cultural scene. In the tavern, people drank and ate, but also created and thought. Tavern walls kept and hid many secrets, but they also witnessed the formation and exchange of many artistic ideas.
#3 Who Were Boems?
Boems (in English bohemian) were people, mainly artists like writers, actors, or painters, who spent their time thinking and creating. Many of them were considered hedonists, so it isn’t strange that they were the main guests of kafanas.
The name boem originates from the French word bohème, which denoted all those who deliberately opposed the expectations of the community.
Belgrade is known for many kafanas where the biggest bohemians of Serbian art scene gathered.
The Tavern “Dardanelli” was popular gathering place for artists in the second half of the nineteenth century, until 1901 when it was demolished.
Today, the National Museum is located on the site of the former tavern, next to the well-known Monument to Knez Mihajlo.
Instead of this tavern, the bohemian district of Skadarlija – a street in the center of Belgrade with numerous taverns and restaurants took over the role of the “Dardanelli” tavern.
Skadarlija became the place where the biggest bohemians of Belgrade gathered. Many tavern stories and events took place in this quarter.
Today, almost any city or even village in Serbia has their kafana places. In the mentioned Skadarlija quarter, there are some of the most popular kafanas in Belgrade. These are Dva jelena, Tri šešira, Zlatni bokal and others.
#4 Rituals of Kafana Culture: Drinks
Most drank drinks in kafana are coffee, rakija and wine.
Drinking coffee in a kafana becomes a ritual long time ago. You don’t gulp it down; you sip it slowly while talking or listening to music. It’s a way of enjoying the moment.
The traditional domaća kafa (= domestic coffee) or turska kafa, similar to the original Turkish coffee, is an essential part of the kafana culture and experience. It’s prepared slowly in džezva (a small copper pot, poured carefully into a small cup, and often served with a glass of water and a piece of sugar.
But you should know one thing, ordering coffee is reserved for the day. If you order coffee at night while live music is around you, you will probably hear that they do not serve coffee at night.
Don’t worry, there are many other drinks you can enjoy!
Šljivovica (brandy made from plums) is the most common, but you’ll also find rakija made from quince (dunjevača), apricot (kajsijevača), or pear (viljamovka).
Besides rakija and all sorts of wine, beer is also a popular alcoholic drink in Serbian kafanas.
And here’s another important part of kafana culture – Don’t forget to toast! You just need to say ‘Živeli’ and everyone around your table will join clinking glasses.
#5 Rituals of Kafana Culture: Food
Kafanas are known for traditional food. You’ll find dishes like ćevapi (grilled minced meat, similar to kebab), pljeskavica (similar to burger meat), sarma (stuffed sauerkraut), pasulj (= bean stew), and pečenje (= roast pork or lamb).
The portions are usually very generous.
A very popular meal to order is mešano meso. Almost any menu at a Serbian kafana has this option. That is a huge plate with barbecue, sausages, and potatoes served in the middle of the table so everyone can see what to eat. These plates are usually enough for two to four people, so feel free to ask the waiter if that amount will be enough for your table.
There are also numerous vegetable salads such as šopska, srpska, fresh cabbage, or baked paprika with garlic.
Eating in a kafana is not just about satisfying hunger. It’s much more about enjoying your time and making memories. Meals are slow and accompanied by lots of conversation.
#6 Rituals of Kafana Culture: Music
Music is the soul of the Serbian kafana.
In many traditional kafanas, you’ll hear live folk music played by a small group of musicians with guitars, violins, and accordions.
Serbs call them tamburaši (name is derived from the musical instrument tambura). They move from table to table, playing songs on request. Tips are also more than welcome, especially if you’re singing along or ordering songs.
It’s common to see guests singing along, laughing, or even crying as the lyrics stir emotions.
Some of the most famous Serbian songs you can hear are Tamo daleko, Đurđevdan, Jutro je, Ajde, Jano.
When you know the lyrics and melody, you’ll understand that in one moment, people are dancing and laughing, and in the next, they’re wiping away tears.
Let’s Sum up!
The kafana culture is important in Serbia, because these places are part of Serbian identity. It’s where generations have celebrated victories, mourned losses, and shared their most honest thoughts and ideas.
To really feel the spirit of Serbia, its past and present, you should definitely take your time and sit in a kafana. No rush, just listen to the music, talk to the locals, and feel the rhythm of life slowing down.
If you thought, ‘How can I speak with locals when I don’t know Serbian?’ Your solution is closer than you think – schedule your Serbian classes!
